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Bandanaira, Negeri Kaya Sejarah Beraroma Rempah

By , Kamis, 15 Desember 2016 | 15:05 WIB

Hari menjelang malam, perjalanan di hari kedua ini kami akhiri dengan makan malam sambil minum kopi di café. Tidak ada yang istimewa dari kopi banda ini, karena kopinya juga di datangkan dari Jawa. Namun jangan sampai ketinggalan merasakan panekuk dengan selai pala atau kayu manis yang lezat luar biasa, “Ini baru Banda”, aroma rempah dan kudapan rasa rempah. Selamat malam banda, mimpi indah saya hari ini pasti Sepia, jadoel ke zaman dahulu kala.

Bawah laut nan indah di aliran lava

Ada lima pulau utama di Bandanaira, selain pulau Naira, yakni Pulau Banda Besar, Pulau Ai, Pulau Run, Pulau Hatta dan Pulau Sjahrir . 

Terasa tak lengkap apabila hanya merasakan keindahan di daratan. Di hari terkahir ini kami bersiap menuju Pulau Syahrir dan akan menyaksikan keindahan bawah laut di sekitar Gunung Api.

Pulau Syahrir dikenal juga dengan sebutan Pulau Pisang. Dari pelabuhan Naira menuju pulau Syahrir hanya ditempuh selama 45 menit dengan perahu motor. Di beri nama pulau Syahrir karena saat pengasingan Bung Syahrir tahun 1935 beliau sempat tinggal di pulau ini. Suasana di pulau ini hampir sama dengan pulau lainnya di Bandanaira,  dipenuhi dengan pohon pala, kemiri dan kenari. Kerap kali saya menemukan hamparan fuli dan biji pala di depan rumah warga.  Apabila cuaca panas, bunga pala ini bisa kering 4-5 hari dan dijual Rp 135.000 perkilonya.

Kepulauan Banda menjadi salah satu titik penyelaman terbaik di dunia. Tahun 1980-an Lady Diana dan Pangeran Charles pun sempat menikmati keindahannya. Jangan khawatir, persewaan alat-alat menyelam tersedia di sini, Dive centre yang berada di Hotel Maulana memanjakan para penyelam. Sebenarnya, dengan menggunakan snorkel saja kita sudah dapat menikmati keindahan bawah laut karena airnya sangat bening, hampir 30 meter ke bawah masih bisa kita lihat dengan jelas, terutama di daerah aliran lava Gunung Api, ini adalah spot terbaik untuk  menikmati alam bawah laut. Gunung api yang meletus tahun 1988 itu menghasilkan lava dan alirannya mengalir menuju permukaan dan dasar laut.

Perkembangan terumbu karangnya disini terhitung sangat pesat, karena kurang dari 10 tahun sudah berkembang biak kembali dengan baik, sehingga mata saya pun begitu dimanjakan dengan terumbu karang aneka warna dan bentuk. Tak kalah menarik, ribuan ikan aneka warna berenang melintas di sela-sela kita.  Sungguh pengalaman yang luar biasa. Bandanaira indah di atas dan di bawah laut.

Jadwal penerbangan ke Ambon pukul 07.00, dengan berat harus mengakhiri perjalanan di Bandanaira.  Besar harapan agar tak ada gangguan karena cuaca buruk, agar penerbangan kami berjalan sesuai rencana. Saya bertemu kembali dengan Turnip sang pramugara, dengan sapaan ramah “Selamat pagi Bapak”, seperti orang sudah kenal bertahun-tahun. Pesawat mulai lepas landas, dan obrolan ringan mengalir sambil melihat Pulau Naira dari atas pesawat perintis ini.

“Saya mintakan izin ke pilot apakah diizinkan memotret dari ruang cockpit," kata Turnip. Tak berapa lama, sang pramugara melambaikan tangannya dan mempersilakan saya menyaksikan pemandangan Ambon dari ketinggian. Indah sekali, walau tetap dengan rasa was-was.

Selamat datang kembali di Ambon! Bandanaira dan perjuangan yang penuh makna, sejarah, semangat perjuangan, kecintaan pada negeri, telah saya dapatkan. Terima kasih sudah menjaga aset budaya dan sejarah negeri ini, sehingga saya dan mungkin anak cucu ke depan masih bisa menyaksikan saksi bisu perjuangan bangsa.

Catatan:

Baca versi Bahasa Inggris di halaman selanjutnya (Read the English version on the next page).

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BANDANAIRA, THE LAND RICH IN SPICE-FLAVORED HISTORY

Ambon to Bandanaira

Smooth landing at Bandanaira Airport, Maluku, broke the silence for almost one hour in the air from Ambon to Bandanaira. Suddenly applause like an opera concert of some of the passengers broke into my reverie, because this pioneering flight used a quite old aircraft, which was certainly different from the aircraft of wide-bodied and sophisticated fittings Boeing type. Naturally, all of the passengers felt worried, so the neatly landing by Captain Bambang became an accomplishment that deserved applause. Tursip as the steward swiftly opened the back door of Casa 212 aircraft that flew only 4 times a week i.e Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday at 07.00 am from Ambon.

Wet aroma was necessarily pungent my nose, it seemed raining in Bandanaira at very early morning, there were still little puddles of water on the runway, and grasses in the garden looked wet, looked up, the sky began to show his bright blue color, slowly the sun peeked behind thick clouds, “The weather is often unpredictable in Bandanaira,” said Turnip the steward, when I started to take pictures this pioneering aircraft with the inscription “Bandanaira” on its side, and my brief conversation soon ended after all passengers of 12 people already leaved the runway. It changed quickly from sunny weather to bad weather. Therefore, the flights to and from Bandanaira only take place in the morning.

Bandanaira

Bandanaira, derived from two island names, namely the island of Banda and the island of Naira. The airport is located in Naira Island, and Banda Island is across naira Island that can be reached by motorboat for less than 30 minutes.

Arriving at the airport my colleagues and I have been picked up by the people from the inn, this inn should be booked in advance because the visit to Bandanaira Island was relative dense recently since May 4, 2013, when the pioneering flight began to reopen. We stayed at Delfika guest house, old European-style buildings everywhere, as if taking us far in 1600s. All still looked like the original, imagining a pretty Dutch lady just liked in the movies in the war time, Dutch soldiers in green uniforms, or a spice skipper in style of foreman with white cap and an old bike (sepeda onthel).

The next three days, my days would be nice here. “Here’s the room key, the far end room” said Bahri while took us toward the inner part of the old house. Room size of 5 x5 meter square, room rate with air-conditioning is IDR 200,000 a night including breakfast in the morning. Clean and quite enough water. Especially guest house Delfika is famous with the most delicious sea food.

Did not want to stay longer in the room, we discussed in front of a sheet of Bandanaira travel map given by Bahri, Guest House’s owner, driving around the city of Naira, to Banda Island (lonthoir) and snorkeling on Syahrir Island, those were our three-days schedule in Bandanaira.

Nothing was far in this island, it took only a half-day to drive around almost the whole Naira Island. But since there were many places to visit, I decided to rent a motorbike just to make it easier for us to move from one place to another, the price of motorbike rent for 5 hours was UDR 60,000 or IDR 45,000 to rent ojek.

Culture House

Before starting to drive around this island, it was better visiting first this culture house, because there were so many historical objects and ancient stories of Bandanaira. Situated right in front of Delfika Guest House. On the left wing there was a set of coffee table equipped with gramophone that was still active, the guide also played a phonograph record that looked well-preserved, the Dutch-era classical music played faintly accompanying our exploration room by room. Diving masks, cooking tools, cannons, church bells, fortress bells, guns, old clock, warbonnet, all was neatly laid out. However the most interesting thing was a picture hanging in the middle space area, described the event that occurred in 1621 in the Nassau castle. At that time 44 rich people in Banda were killed brutally conducted on the order of the Dutch Governor General Jan Pieterszoon Coen, in front of his wife and children and his family by 6 samurai executioners that directly came from Japan (their samurai could still be seen in the culture house). Thereafter the dead bodies of 44 rich people threw into an old well not far from the fort Nassau, this time the well was still good maintained and known as Perigi Rante (Rante Well). Near the well there was a monument containing the names of 44 people that were killed. 

To be able to monopolize the spices commerce throughout the islands of Banda, and frighten Banda’s people into submission to the Dutch government were the motivation of this massacre.

Fort Belgica

Actually this was the reason that most reinforced my intention to visit Bandanaira, when seeing the picture of the very beautiful fort Belgica on the Internet, I was so amazed by the shape and architecture of this fort, “ahh… finally my dream came true” now fort Belgica was in front of me, slightly gasping for breath climbed up almost a hundred stairs to the gate of the fort, just liked a child who could not wait to go to the playground, that's what I felt. Apparently the gate was still locked, because every guest could not freely come and go into this Fortress, there was an officer standing on guard there, but not always staying in the castle, so we had to make an appointment first. Helped by residents finally 30 minutes later the officer succeeded to call, anxiously waiting at the gate, while occasionally taking pictures of the from a height. Very graceful volcano looked flushed green, the dazzling blue sky. I really felt like finding an exciting new playground.

Fort Belgica recorded as one of the “World Heritage” by UNESCO was built in 1621 by the Portuguese as the center of defense, but in the Dutch colonial period, Fort Belgica switched its function to monitor the traffic of trade ships that later successfully looted by the Dutch to dominate the world spice trade. Imagine how valuable spices in those days. Based on the story of Des Alwi (late) the community leader of Bandanaira, the price of one kg of nutmeg, was able to build a house in Europe. Who was not tempted by this wealth, so VOC kept struggling to maintain Bandanaira.

Having a five-square shape, there were two floors that could be seen as a whole. The lower part was some cells for women and men with stocks and also guillotine, a flagpole also two wells that supposedly used as a tunnel leading to the castle Nassau and another one towards the harbor. On the second floor we could see five cannons in line, with VOC logo on it as well as an open space with five towers; be careful to climb up the castle tower, the stairs were very steep and only one body width, and the edges were very narrow. If you did not get caught in the tower then try to climb four other towers again, because every corner of the fort offers its own beauty, the Scenery of Volcano, motorboats pacing along Banda Bay, or the wreckage of Fort Nassau, are visible very clearly. You can at once imagine as Jan Pieterszoon Coen the Dutch Governor-General, twisting mustache stand proudly looking at the ocean oversee spices carrier vessels with the elegance of the Volcano.

Exile House of Bung Hatta, Bung Sjahrir, Prison and Mini Palace

Leaving Fort Belgica, I walked south into the exile house of Bung Hatta, and also the exile house of Bung Sjahrir because the Dutch was worried about the political persistence of them both, so they were exiled by the Dutch to Bandanaira starting from 1935 to 1942, for 8 years these two National political figures were persistent teaching political science, language to the local community, so that in this house we could still see the arrangement of chairs and tables like a school.

The house of Bung Hatta in exile

Next to the exile house of Bung Hatta there was a Dutch colonial building-style prison. During this visit we met the prison’s head and talked for awhile, that it was small amount of crime in Bandanaira that currently there was only one person in prison and besides it was transferred from the city of Ambon.

The journey continued to the Mini Palace; was so called because the palace was built one year earlier than the Presidential Palace in Jakarta, seen from the pillars were indeed almost similar. It was possible that the design of this palace served as an example for the construction of the presidential palace in Jakarta. The building was reputedly being used as an office center of the spice trade as well as the residence of the Dutch Governor General including Jan Pieterszoon Coen; building with a large yard, flagpole in front of it and cannons on both sides. When seeing the inner side, ceilings, windows and floors were still well-maintained, although it was empty none of the objects in it, while the scenery in front of it was Zonnegat Strait dividing the island of Great Banda and Naira Island.

Walking to the side of the mini castle, we could still find the statue of Willem III in the courtyard, he was the King of Dutch in 1849-1890 year reign.

Old Church, Old Mosque and Temple of Sun Tien Kong

How lucky I was when crossing in the front of the church on Sunday; it was crowded congregation attending mass, so I could see inside the old church, along with its activity, so beautiful and unique, because there were many writings in Dutch on the floor. After asking permission I was allowed to go up to the balcony at the rear to take the atmosphere in it. In the evening I also felt an evening prayer in the old mosque Masjid Al-Mukhlisin also known as mosque of Hatta-Sjahrir. While buying special souvenirs of Banda Island, nutmeg jam, halua kenari (nougat) and walnuts I saw the Temple of Sun Tien Kong that still looked well-maintained. The presence of these worship houses signified diverse ethnic and religious here.

Day two to Lonthoir

Lonthoir or Lontor is the name of the village on the island of Great Banda (Banda Besar), which is located across the Naira Island. The boat docked at the pier, and just 100 m walk we've been invited to climb up the stairs, a moment I imagined the stairs at Imogiri tomb or the stairs to Bromo crater, a lot and quite high, slowly but sure, while counting the stair, not know the certain counting but it was definitely more than 300 pieces of stairs counted until finally arrived at the Fort Hollandia, which was built in 1642. The fort overlooks naira Island. Initially the fort was named Fort Lonthoir, and then changed by Pieter Vlak into Fort Hollandia. The fort was built to control the sea traffic passing through the strait between naira and Lonthoir, especially to monitor trading activities of nutmeg and mace in villages/kampongs along the coast of Lonthoir Island.

But this Fort Hollandia seemed less maintained, both sides of the wall had seemed intact, and the main door also did not look strong again, a lot of exposed stones that seemed at risk for collapse. The weeds were vining everywhere so it almost covered the main door. Suddenly heavy rain fell, so we took shelter for 15 minutes in this castle gate.

It was changed back to sunny weather, from the front door we could see the beautiful scenery of Lonthoir Village, Volcano and Zonnegat Strait, from the distance the fort Belgica still could be seen that located at an altitude of Tabaleku Hill on the island of naira

(Mace) flowers and Whole Nutmeg

The journey continued to the nutmeg and walnuts garden, nutmegs hanging on every tree, ready to pick, almost all parts of the fruit having economic value; nutmeg pulp can be processed into sweetmeat or to be boiled with sugar into a syrup nutmeg, its flowers (mace) are used as spices for cooking or extracted its juice into raw materials for cosmetics and perfumes, and the seeds made into a variety of herbs. But sometimes this white nutmeg pulp can be directly eaten as rujak (sort of salad), for those who can hold with sour taste, this nutmeg pulp becomes delicious snack, please try.

After touring in the nutmeg garden I met two children of Lonthoir, while shepherd their livestock picking the falling walnuts in the garden. Walnuts are seasoned and taken its seeds; walnuts become the most famous natural resource here that can be processed into food or essential oils.

Thirst ambushed, but water supplies ran out, “let’s we drink the well water,” said Ali the owner of the motorboat that we rented from naira. An old well with a depth of about 7m, there were two springs here, one well for women and one well for men, men should not take water from women’s well, that was the applicable rule. The well is regarded as sacred well (Perigi). Drinking water source of Lonthoir people is from this well, without having to be cooked first, the water is ready to drink, and no doubt, I also drank this well water to drink water, and brought in a bottle. Every 10 years a traditional ceremony is held to wash this well. Last the well was washed in 1989.

It was early in the evening, we ended the trip on this second day with dinner while drinking coffee at the café, there was nothing special about this coffee Banda, because the coffee is also brought from Java, just don’t miss to taste amazingly delicious pancake with nutmeg or cinnamon jam, “this is Banda”, the aroma of spices and spice-flavored snack. Good night Banda, my sweet dream today is definitely Sepia, back to the old days.

Beautiful underwater in Lava flow

There are five main islands in Bandanaira, besides the island of Naira there are also the island of Great Banda, Ai Island, Run Island, Hatta Island and Sjahrir Island. 

It does not feel complete if only to feel the beauty in the mainland, this last day we’d like to see the beauty of underwater as well, got ready to go to Syahrir Island and the underwater beauty around Volcano.

Snorkeling and enjoying the amazing beauty of underwater in front of the lava flows, its biodiversity is growing rapidly. Bandanaira

Syahrir Island, the island is known as Banana Island, it takes only 45 minutes from Naira port to Syahrir Island by motorboat. The name of Syahrir Island is given because during the exile of Bung Sjahrir in 1935 he had ever lived on this island. The atmosphere in the island is almost the same as the other islands in Bandanaira, Syahrir Island is also filled with the trees of nutmeg, pecan and walnuts. We often found overlays of mace (red mace) and nutmeg seeds laid in front of the house. If the weather is hot, these maces can dry within 4-5 days and sold of IDR 135,000 a kilo.

Banda Island as one of the best dive spots in the world, in 1980’s Lady Diana and Prince Charles ever had the time to enjoy its beauty. Do not worry, diving tools for rent are also available here, Dive centre located in Hotel Maulana indulges the divers, but in fact only using a snorkel we can enjoy its beauty because the water is very clear, we can still clearly see almost 30 meters down, especially in the area of Volcano lava flow, this is the best spot to enjoy the underwater world. Volcano that erupted in 1988 and produced lava and it flowed toward the surface and the seabed. The growth of coral reefs here are very fast; less than 10 years it already has good proliferation. My eyes became was so indulged by the various colors and shapes of coral reefs, and not less interesting thousands of colorful fishes swam passing between us. It was an amazing experience. Bandanaira was beautiful above and below the sea.

Flight schedule to Ambon at 7 am, it was difficult to end the trip in Bandanaira. With a great hope that it was not bad weather, so that the flight can be done on scheduled. Once again meeting Turnip the steward, “good morning, Sir”, with his friendly greeting as if we’ve known for years, the plane started to take off, and light conversation flew, while seeing the island of Naira from this pioneering aircraft, “Could you please ask to the pilot for a permission if I might allow to take pictures of the cockpit room, and before long, the steward waved his hand and let me see the sights of Ambon from a height. What beautiful, though still with a sense of anxiety.

Welcome back to Ambon, Bandanaira and the Journey full of meaning, history, fighting spirit, love of country, are the meaning I get. Thank you for keeping this historical and cultural asset, so that I and probably my children and grandchildren can still watch silent witness of the national struggle.

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Editor : Prana Prayudha